| Thread type is chosen for its
compatibility with the fabric's structure and fiber content as well as the
type of project being worked on.
There are many types of threads - carpet thread,
darning thread, embroidery thread, crochet thread, basting thread, and
buttonhole twist as examples. This article will deal only with the threads
that are primarily used with most projects done on a sewing machine.
The following chart shows various types of sewing
thread and their usage. Where size numbers apply, the higher the number,
the finer the thread - the median size is 50. Where letters indicate the
size, A is fine and D is heavy.
GENERAL PURPOSE THREADS
COTTON: A medium thickness (size 50) is available in
a wide range of colors, and is used for sewing on light and medium weight
cottons, rayons and linens. Cotton thread is usually mercerized, a
finishing process that makes it smooth and lustrous, also helping it to
take dye better. The lack of "give" in cotton thread makes it an
unwise choice for knits or other stretchy fabrics, as the stitches will
tend to pop.
SILK: A fine (size A) strong thread for sewing on
silk and wool. Its fineness makes it ideal for basting all fabric types,
as it does not leave holes from stitching or imprints after pressing.
Because of its elasticity, silk is also suitable for sewing any type of
knit. Silk thread is recommended for tailoring because it can be molded
along with the fabric in shaped areas.
NYLON: A fine (size A) strong thread for sewing
light to medium weight synthetics. This is especially suited to nylon
tricot.
POLYESTER: An all-purpose weight (approximately size
50) is suitable for sewing on most fabrics, but particularly recommended
for woven synthetics; also for knits and other stretch fabrics of any
fiber. Most polyester threads have a wax or silicone finish to help them
slip through the fabric with a minimum of friction.
COTTON-WRAPPED POLYESTER: An all-purpose weight
(approximately size 50) for sewing on knits or wovens of synthetic or
natural fibers or blends. The polyester core gives this type of thread
strength and elasticity, the cotton wrapping gives it a tough, heat
resistant surface.
HEAVY DUTY THREADS
COTTON; POLYESTER; COTTON-WRAPPED POLYESTER: These
are coarse threads (approximately size 40) used where extra strength is
required for sewing of heavy vinyl, coating or upholstery fabrics.
Regardless of the project you will be working on, it
is very important to purchase a good quality thread. The "5 spools of
thread for a buck" is not a bargain. The fibers of the
"bargain" thread splits easily while you're sewing and can cause
knotting of the thread, breakage of the thread and can also cause a
build-up of lint in the bobbin area and along the thread line from the
spool to the needle. If you hold a length of the bargain thread up to a
light you can readily see the frayed edges and roughness of the thread.
When buying thread for your project it is
recommended that you select thread one shade darker than the fabric in
order for it to blend in harmoniously. If the fabric is a plaid or multi-
color print, select that color that is most dominant.
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About the author:
Sarah J. Doyle is author of over 25 sewing, craft
and how-to books, as well as author of online pattern making, sewing and
craft classes. Visit http://LearnHowToSew.com and
http://ClothingConstruction.com
for more tips and how-to information on sewing and crafting.
(c) Copyright 2004, Sarah J. Doyle. All Rights
Reserved.
You have permission to publish this article
electronically or in print, free of charge, as long as the bylines are
included. A courtesy copy of your publication sent to me at sarah@sewwithsarah.com
would be appreciated. |
